The Sweet, Mysterious History of Sugar Plums: A Story Worth Its Weight in Candy
Sugar plums, those glittering confections often conjured in images of Victorian Christmastime and immortalized in Clement Clarke Moore’s A Visit from St. Nicholas (1823)—“while visions of sugar plums danced in their heads”—are a delightful enigma. Few modern candy enthusiasts can describe them, and fewer still have tasted the treat. Are they fruit, candy, or something else entirely? The history of sugar plums is a rich tapestry of culinary invention, literary flourish, and cultural symbolism.
What Are Sugar Plums?
Despite the name, sugar plums are not plums at all—at least not in the sense of the fresh, juicy fruit. Historically, sugar plums were a type of confectionary, a member of the larger family of “comfits,” which were sugar-coated seeds, nuts, or spices. Almonds, caraway seeds, and aniseeds were popular centers for these treats. They were painstakingly made through a process called “panning,” in which successive layers of sugar syrup were added to a seed or nut, then dried and repeated until the desired size and smoothness were achieved.
The resulting candy was hard, spherical, and, to the uninitiated, somewhat mysterious. The term “plum” was often used in pre-modern English to describe anything round or desirable, not necessarily the fruit we associate with the name today. Thus, sugar plums were more about their shape and sweetness than their botanical origins.
Ancient Beginnings: Sugar and Spice
The roots of sugar plums lie deep in the history of sugar itself, a product as much about prestige and power as it was about flavor. Sugar, originating from India and spreading through trade routes to Persia, the Mediterranean, and eventually Europe, was a prized commodity. By the 13th century, sugar had become a centerpiece of aristocratic feasts across Europe. Confections like comfits—created to showcase culinary skill and wealth—became a highlight of these occasions.
The art of candy-making reached new heights during the Renaissance, as chefs experimented with preserving fruits, making marzipan, and creating elaborate sugar sculptures. Sugar plums emerged from this world of indulgence, with their labor-intensive production ensuring they remained a luxury item for centuries.
The Rise of Sugar Plums in Europe
By the 16th and 17th centuries, sugar plums had become a fixture in European high society. In England, they appeared on the banquet tables of the elite, often accompanied by other sugared delights like candied orange peel and preserved cherries. Sugar plums were not just eaten but also used decoratively, displayed in ornate sugar bowls or gifted as tokens of affection and status.
The panning process, however, was no small feat. It required constant attention and skill, as the confectioner added thin layers of sugar syrup to the center while ensuring the coating dried evenly. Early descriptions of the process appear in The English Huswife by Gervase Markham (1615) and other household manuals of the period. These texts reveal how labor-intensive the process was—requiring specialized equipment like brass pans and constant stirring over an open flame.
Sugar Plums in Literature: From Christmas to Fairy Tales
The sugar plum’s place in Western culture is cemented as much by its mentions in literature as by its confectionary history. In Clement Clarke Moore’s A Visit from St. Nicholas, sugar plums became synonymous with Christmas magic, a culinary shorthand for childhood dreams and holiday cheer. But Moore wasn’t the only writer to immortalize the candy.
In E.T.A. Hoffmann’s The Nutcracker and the Mouse King (1816), later adapted into Tchaikovsky’s famous ballet, the Sugar Plum Fairy reigns over the Land of Sweets, a whimsical kingdom where candy comes to life. The fairy’s association with sugar plums is particularly fitting, as these confections, with their shimmering sugar coatings, embody the fantastical and otherworldly. The ballet, first performed in 1892, solidified sugar plums as a symbol of Christmas and a link to the enchanting.
Other references to sugar plums appear in works like Jane Austen’s Emma (1815), where they are part of a genteel social gathering, and Charles Dickens’s A Christmas Carol (1843), in which they evoke the era’s festive opulence. These mentions reflect the sugar plum’s status as both a delicacy and a cultural touchstone.
A Quirky Candy for a Quirky Era
Beyond their literary significance, sugar plums have an odd and occasionally humorous history. By the 18th century, they had taken on metaphorical meanings. The phrase “sugar plum” was used as a term of endearment, much like calling someone “sweetheart” or “honey.” It also became slang for a bribe or reward, as in “a little sugar plum for the judge.”
Political cartoons of the time often depicted sugar plums as symbols of corruption or indulgence. In one 19th-century illustration, a politician is shown dangling sugar plums in front of voters, promising sweet rewards in exchange for loyalty.
The Industrial Revolution: The Decline of the Traditional Sugar Plum
The labor-intensive nature of sugar plum production meant that the Industrial Revolution, with its machinery and mass production, spelled the end for traditional handmade comfits. New confections like boiled sweets and chocolates began to dominate the market, offering a wider variety of flavors and textures at lower prices. Sugar plums, once the pinnacle of culinary artistry, faded from mainstream candy-making.
By the 20th century, sugar plums had become more of a concept than a specific treat, their image sustained by nostalgic Christmas traditions and literary references. Modern interpretations often involve dried fruits, nuts, and spices rolled into balls and coated in sugar, but these no longer resemble the original hard-shelled candies.
Modern Revivals and Misunderstandings
Today, sugar plums are experiencing a modest revival among artisan candy makers and historical reenactors. Food historians like Ivan Day have painstakingly recreated the original recipes, offering a glimpse into their bygone glory. These efforts are often showcased in living history museums, where visitors can watch the meticulous panning process in action.
At the same time, misconceptions about sugar plums persist. Many contemporary recipes labeled as “sugar plums” involve no panning at all, instead combining dried fruits like figs, prunes, and apricots with nuts and spices, rolled into truffle-like confections. While delicious in their own right, these modern sugar plums are a far cry from their historical namesakes.
Unusual Facts About Sugar Plums
1. Medicinal Roots: Some early comfits, including sugar plums, were valued for their supposed medicinal properties. Aniseed, for instance, was thought to aid digestion, making sugar plums a popular post-meal treat.
2. Astronomical Comparisons: The term “sugar plum” was used in 18th- and 19th-century astronomy to describe celestial objects like stars or planets with a bright, round appearance.
3. Symbol of Temptation: In 19th-century temperance literature, sugar plums were sometimes portrayed as symbols of overindulgence and moral decay—a far cry from their wholesome Christmas image.
4. Longest Sugar Plum: A Guinness World Record for the largest sugar plum was set in 2017 by an artisan confectioner who created a three-foot-long candy using traditional methods.
Though the original sugar plum is rare today, its legacy endures in our imaginations, thanks to its literary associations, festive connotations, and historical significance. From its origins as a luxury treat for European elites to its transformation into a symbol of Christmas magic, the sugar plum has danced through history with a grace befitting its name. It’s a reminder that even the humblest candies can tell stories as rich and complex as the sugar that coats them.
So this holiday season, when you hear Tchaikovsky’s Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy or spot a sugar plum recipe online, spare a thought for the long journey of this quirky confection—a journey as sweet and layered as the candy itself.
